Sedgwick County Animal Control
Dog Care
Puppy
Food | Dog
Training | Dog
Brushes
Leashes
& Collars | Other
Supplies
Ask the breeder, pet store or shelter what kind of food is currently
being fed to your pup. Stay with that for about 10 days. Then, if you choose another brand
of puppy food, make the shift gradually.
Arriving at a new home can be traumatic for a puppy, and can
affect its diet. If the puppy is too distracted to eat during those first few days, be
encouraging. You can microwave the dry food on medium heat, just enough to create an
enticing aroma (don't burn your puppy's tongue), or add moist food to dry kibble. Don't
allow this practice to become a habit; even little puppies are capable of training their
owners.
Veterinary nutritionists encourage a diet of primarily dry food.
High-quality puppy foods are researched and balanced, and do not require
supplements. Look for a fat profile between 10 and 15 percent and a
protein profile between 22 and 25 percent.
Dogs fed exclusively adult chow may suffer from slowed or stunted
growth, since they may not receive the right amount of calcium and phosphorus. According
to the American Association of Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), too little calcium (less
than 1 percent) may slow or stunt growth, and too much calcium (more than 2.5 percent) may
advance the possibility of hip dysplasia or puppy carpal syndrome. Unfortunately, few
products indicate percent of calcium in nutritional analysis.
Some breeders are now recommending against puppy food for giant
breeds such as Great Danes, Newfoundlands and Irish Wolfhounds. Instead, they are
suggesting a diet solely of adult food. Their goal is to avoid such muscular/skeletal
abnormalities as puppy carpal syndrome (accelerated bone growth) and hip
dysplasia. Adult
food, which is generally not as high-energy a meal as puppy chow, may temper growth.
Several recent studies indicate that giant breeds overfed on puppy food are more likely to
suffer hip dysplasia. Puppy food is certainly not the only potential cause of this
ailment, which also has a certain genetic component. For giant breeds, it is best to be closer to 10 percent for fat and
22 percent for protein. Most veterinary nutritionists now recommend a conservative
puppy chow that wont' cause overgrowth for larger breeds. At four to six months of
age -- sooner than many other breeds -- make the transition to the adult food.
Remember - most puppies don't have appetite control.
Most dogs remain on puppy food until they are 10 months old to just
over a year old. If you notice that your dog is beginning to "fill out" a bit
too much, it's probably time to make the gradual shift to adult food. Consult your vet for
the exact timing, which will depend on the breed, amount of exercise the dog is getting,
and its individual metabolism.
Dogs do not crave variety as people do. Still, owners have been
known to offer table scraps. At least make the scraps healthy tidbits like pieces of fresh
or uncooked carrots or tomatoes. And don't offer those scraps at the dining room table
unless you want to train your dog to beg.
Guidelines
for feeding table scraps to your pet
Let's face it, while just about every
veterinarian and every book about training recommends against it, almost all
owners feed their dog table scraps. Since it's almost inevitable, here are some
good guidelines:
-
Offering pups treats from the kitchen or
dining-room table is a really effective way to teach your dog to beg and
annoy dinner guests when they're eating. If you must feed your dog
from the table, do it when the dog is behaving the way you want it to.
For example, if your puppy is off sleeping, then nonchalantly present it
with a treat -- in other words, you're rewarding it for sleeping while you
eat. Or just toss any morsels into its food bowl after you
finish eating.
-
Some veterinary nutritionists encourage adding
vegetables to your dog's diet on an occasional basis. Rice, plain yogurt,
and plain pastas are fine too. We don't have to expound on the
sheer canine bliss of devouring hot dogs, hamburgers, steak, chicken or
turkey. Use these delicacies as a training tool. Take
pieces of hot dog or turkey to the park in your pocket or a bag to practice
the "come" command. Your dog will really be motivated to
return.
-
Canine biscuits and high-quality rawhide can
help your dog scrape tartar off its teeth. Pig ears are the trendy
treat, and they even come in pizza and nacho flavors. They are like
gum for dogs. They don't do much good or much harm; they're simply
something to chew on. Never offer chicken or turkey bones to pets, because
they can choke on small and/or soft bones.
-
Use common sense -- too many treats are
fattening and unhealthy. However, what would your life be like without
cookies, ice cream, pie and candy? Dogs deserve treats too!
TOP
Dog owners may truly
believe they are diligent because they seek proper veterinary care. And they may
truly love their companions, offering lots of praise and affection. However,
millions of well-cared-for and lavished pets still find themselves playing the lottery for
life at a local shelter because these owners forgot about one thing -- dogs require
training. Just as children don't understand the rules of how to live in society
unless they are taught, puppies also require direction.
Early socialization is important, and for many breeds it's
imperative. Legendary canine researcher John Paul Scott determined in the late 1950s
that puppies are most impressionable between weeks five and 16 after birth. This
window is called the critical period of socialization, and all pups should be exposed to
all kinds of people, including rabbis on roller skates, women with nose rings, and
screaming children. Without this early exposure, the dog may react fearfully,
aggressively, or confused when exposed later in life. Some experts theorize that
dogs who become fearful of thunder do so because there were no thunderstorms occurring
when the puppy went through its critical period of socialization.
Puppy training classes provide an opportunity to socialize with all
kinds of people and dogs. Additionally and most importantly, the handler learns how
to better communicate with the puppy. A good dog trainer doesn't really teach the
dog as much as he or she instructs the owner. When the class is a positive
experience, the handler intensifies the human/canine bond. A good trainer can also
address common questions about housebreaking, excessive barking, and all those other puppy
problems.
Classes once began when pups were actually young adults, 10 months
to one year old. Trainers struggled to correct inappropriate behavior rather than
mold appropriate responses. It was thought that young puppies didn't have long
enough attention spans to attend classes at a young age. Research by Scott and
others proved that thinking wrong.
In the 1960s canine author and researcher Milo Pearsall coined the
term "puppy kindergarten," and dogs began going to school as early as four to
six months. Veterinarians advise that dogs start no earlier, since puppies younger
than four months are particularly susceptible to viruses because they have not completed
their series of vaccinations. Veterinarians urgently stressed the issue when the
Parvo virus was rampantly spreading and killing puppies in the late 1970s and early 1980s.
Recently, trainers have started offering puppy pre-school where dogs
begin the basics when they are eight to 11 weeks old. While there is an increased
danger of contracting a canine virus, supporters of pre-school say that early positive
socialization is worth any potential risk.
Click on a link below
for helpful hints
TOP
No matter what type of coat your dog happens to have -- unless you
own a hairless breed, such as the Chinese Crested -- brushing is good for your dog's skin
and coat. If you have a double-coated or long-coated dog, it's a way to catch at
least some of the hair that would otherwise drop off on your sofa or carpeting. Brushing is also a means to display your undivided affection and
attention. Most dogs like the sensation; some will close their eyes and relax into
pure ecstasy. Even animals in wolf and feral dog packs groom each other to
strengthen social cohesion. Brushing is just another way to intensify the bond with
your companion.
Bristle Brush
Can be used for dogs with any kind of coat. It's especially
effective at removing dead hair.
Flea Comb
A fine-toothed comb can be used to catch those little
hoppin' buggers. It's also a decent implement for smoothing coats of dogs with short or mid-length
hair.
Hand-Stripping Knife
Wiry coats should be hand-stripped every three to four months.
Pluck dead hairs by holding your thumb against the knife and stripping in the
direction of the growth.
Rake Brush
Used to pull dead undercoat from densely coated dogs. This
should be used gently.
Rubber Brush
Especially effective for loosening surface hair and removing dead
hair from smooth-coated dogs.
Scissors
Even dogs that don't require professional grooming sometimes need
excess hair removed. Extra hair around the ears, bushy hair around the tail and
superfluous feathering at the legs can be trimmed.
Slicker Brush
Designed to remove tangles and prevent matting in dense and/or short
coats.
TOP
In Sedgwick County, every dog must have a collar with an ID tag
and proof of rabies vaccination -- it's the law. Collars are generally nylon or
leather and may come in a reflective material that makes it easy to spot in the evening.
Choose your dog's collar with its lifestyle in mind. A $50 elegant
black-leather collar hand-embroidered with the dog's name isn't very practical for Diver
Dan, the Newfoundland who swims daily laps. Puppies do grow out of their first collar, so pay attention.
Don't let the dog choke on a collar that is too small. The basic collar is left on the dog at all times. There are
also several kinds of working collars from which to choose:
Training Collar
This is sometimes referred to as a choke collar; however, if this
chain-link collar is choking your dog, you're using it incorrectly. This collar may
cause trachea damage if used the wrong way. Don't even attempt to use this collar
with a puppy under 10 weeks of age. A training collar isn't used for romps in the
park; it's used for training sessions, such as walks down the street as you teach the
"heel" command. When you slide the loop through the collar, it should look like the
letter "P" as you face your dog. Slip the chain over its head.
One little secret to help you understand this collar: it's not the
jolt of the snap that corrects your dog as much as the "ching-ching" sound the
collar makes when it's on correctly. The timing of the correction is crucial to its
effectiveness. When introducing this collar -- or any kind of collar -- to a puppy,
allow a sniff and a thorough inspection on the first try. On the second try, put it
over the dog's head, offer praise and a treat, and then remove the collar. On the
third try, do the same as the second time, but leave the collar on for about three
minutes. By your fourth or fifth try, your dog won't be doing collar combat, as so
many puppies do. If you combine the treat with the phrase, "Put on your
necklace," the dog will learn it as a command and extend its neck, actually wanting
you to slip on the collar.
Pinch Collar
It looks barbaric, but many trainers use this collar with success.
The Germans developed it for dogs with strong necks or even stronger wills.
When the dog bolts out of position, it feels a pinch and, in essence, corrects
itself. This collar should not be used on puppies under 14 weeks, and should always
be operated under a trainer's direction.
Head Halter, Halti or Gentle Lead
It looks like a muzzle, but it's not. It's a great tool for rambunctious,
mouthy puppies and over-excited dogs that are determined to walk their
owners. A nylon harness slips around the body, with a halter going around
the head, similar to a horse's bridle. Although dogs often struggle if
suddenly forced into this collar, overall it's the most humane working
collar. If the dog pulls or lunges, its own momentum pulls its head down
and its jaws shut. By design, this collar can't possibly exert pressure on
a dog's neck.
Leashes
Bottom line: a leash or lead allows you to control your puppy when
it would rather be doing something else. Puppies should always be on a leash since
they are unpredictable and can take off at a moment's notice like young children.
Standard 6-foot Cotton, Leather or Nylon Leash
Comfort in your hand and durability are the two most important
factors. Your comfort will mean better walks for your dog.
Extension or Flexi-leash
While these leashes allow dogs to explore, these 16- to 26-foot
leads aren't always practical for dogs that enjoy socializing, since the leashes can
easily get tangled with those of nearby dogs. In fact, parks in some communities
outlaw these leashes because they may make controlling a dog too difficult.
Flexi-leashes are not practical when training a dog.
TOP
Other
Supplies
Crates
Particularly for people with busy lifestyles, these small puppy
cages are a good idea for the owners and ultimately for the puppies, too. While some
owners are hung up on the idea of keeping dogs caged, crates are extremely helpful, and
many dogs actually enjoy the seclusion offered in their "den,"
"house," "room," or whatever term you choose to call your pup's crate.
However, don't depend on crates as puppy-sitters for extended lengths of time while
you're at home.
-
A crate should be slightly longer than the dog. For puppies,
either purchase a small crate and plan to buy another when the dog grows larger, or
purchase a large crate that will be just right when your pup matures. Also buy a
crate divider that you can insert to adjust to your pup's current size. Some owners
purchase plastic carrier-type crates. Most of these manufacturers don't offer
dividers, so build your own. But think first, since a makeshift cardboard divider
will probably turn into puppy lunch.
-
You can use a crate to help housebreak a pup. If a puppy is
physically able to avoid it, it will rarely soil where it sleeps. However, puppies
have limited control. It's best to do everything you can to discourage a dog from
relieving itself in its crate. To train your pup, take it out when you know it will
have to go, which is most likely after it has just woken up, after it has lapped up lots
of water or about 30 minutes after eating.
-
Give the place a name. Say, "Go to your room,"
"Go to your condo," or whatever you want to call it, in an upbeat voice.
Reinforce the pleasant experience by placing a treat in the crate as a surprise
present. The crate should be a happy place; don't send your dog there for
punishment.
Beds
For many very happy dogs, your bed is their bed. That's fine,
but it's also a good idea for a dog to have its own place. Anything from an old soft
sheet to a bean bag to an expensive plush doggy bed will do, as long as it's washable.
What's more important to your dog is the bed's location. A bed that is
situated in a secluded corner of the house away from all the action won't please any dog.
Remember, your dog wants to be with you.
Bowls
A stainless steel bowl is the most durable, and rubber rims on the
bottom will prevent the dog from using it as a hockey puck. A ceramic bowl will
rarely tip over, but if it cracks, bacteria may form.
Dental care
Pet toothbrushes are specifically made for animals, although you can
use a children's starter toothbrush. Most dogs don't like the minty taste of human
toothpaste, but they may really enjoy liver- or chicken-flavored toothpaste.
Nail Clippers
Use clippers especially made for pets for trimming the nails of
adult pooches. For puppies, toenail clippers are less clumsy and easier to use.
Toys
Toys fall into two categories: those that are a good idea and those
that will do more harm than good.
-
Hollow bones -- the kind purchased at a pet store, not from your pot
roast at home -- are great for satisfying a dog's need to chew. Hard plastic and
rubber objects can serve the same function. However, it's time to discard the toy if
your dog succeeds in biting off pieces.
TOP
©, Copyright, 2001 Sedgwick County Animal Control
last update: 01/02/08
Please report problems to the webmaster
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
|
|
Services |
|
|
|
Issues |
|
|
|
Departmental
Information |
|
|
|
Other Links |
|
|
|
Contact Us
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sedgwick
County
Animal Control
1015 Stillwell
Wichita, KS 67213
Tel: (316) 660-7070
1-800-527-0709
Fax: (316) 383-7553
HOURS:
8 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Mon-Sun
|
|
Your
Government
